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Deny mice a food supply. Mice search for a warm and comfortable source of food (especially in colder temperatures). Make sure to keep your kitchen area extra clean. Wiping the table and counters and sweeping the floor after meals to ensure there’s no tempting crumbs or spills left behind is a good practice. It's also smart to store all unsealed food — including pet food — in airtight plastic, glass or metal containers. Certified wildlife biologist Dr. Paul Curtis says that mice seek the shelter of our homes for a few different reasons. “Mice are attracted to homes because they provide food sources and safe habitat to avoid bad weather and predators,” he says. He also explains that mice frequently use insulation as nesting material, and they can chew through cardboard boxes in pantries or cabinets to steal food. The more mouse traps you use, the higher your chance of trapping a mouse, especially if you have more than one mouse in the house. Try adding 1 mouse trap per 2-3 feet of baseboard or wall. Duration One unusual feature of this trap that we especially like is that it's pre-baited; the trigger pedal has a "cheese scent" that will attract foraging mice. However, you can add a small smear of peanut butter if you want to make certain you catch the rodent. Either way, you will need to take extra care when setting this trap, as otherwise you might get a highly painful snap on your own finger. Plus, be careful to set the traps where pets and children can't reach them, but where rodents are present. Underneath a sink, behind appliances, or inside cupboards are all good options, as are basements and attics. The trap should be positioned with the bait end against the wall for best effectiveness. Because the trap is made of durable plastic, it can either be reused or thrown away. If you do reuse the trap, be sure to clean it thoroughly and use gloves while handling it.
All of the traps on our list are made out of plastic or wood, with metal components. The Victor M156-20 Metal Pedal Sustainably Sourced FSC Wood Snap Mouse Trap is made from wood, while the other traps on our list are made with durable plastic. Note that we do not recommend rodenticides, which should never be used in homes because of the risk of accidental poisoning, especially of children and pets.
Yes, they can be, and especially so if you insist on using old-school basic snap traps. If you want to go down the lethal trap route, then we’d advise using one of the more advanced modern options which are guaranteed to kill a mouse outright rather than causing a cruel injury – they guarantee a more humane kill. Which one is the best for you depends on a number of factors, including where your mouse or mice are active, whether there might be a risk to children or pets, and how confident you are handling either the remains of a mouse or, indeed, a live mouse. When it comes households with young, curious children and pets, snap trap are not suitable. After all, little fingers – and paws – can easily wander where they shouldn’t. We’ve selected some of the best examples of each below, so choose your trap and get that mouse out of your house!
Once you can see that the kill bar has sprung, you’ll know you’ve caught and killed your mouse, so now to get rid of it; which is where this Rentokil option continues to assist those with more than a touch of musophobia (fear of mice). Thanks to the design of the front tube, the mouse can be easily dropped into a bag or bin without having to even see it, let alone touch it. Have you discovered small little mouse droppings under the sink or in your cupboards? Is the thought of having a little mouse scurrying around while you sleep and contaminating your home keeping you up at night?The good news is that finding evidence of one mouse does not necessarily mean you have an actual infestation on your hands. But, if you don’t take immediate action to rid yourself of the pest you do have, an infestation is likely to follow. Think about what type of trap you want to use. The four main options are outlined below and they vary by cost, ease of use and squirm factor (i.e. how much you'll actually have to see or handle the rodent).
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